Showing posts with label University of College Dublin. Show all posts
Showing posts with label University of College Dublin. Show all posts

Thursday, June 16, 2016

Object of offering, object of ire

NOTE: This post originally appeared on our program's blog, Murray State's Irish Literature Study Abroad, as an assignment about an object we found interesting.

The Yank's offering at Collins' grave.
A few times a year, an American woman calling herself “The Yank” visits the Glasnevin Cemetery to deliver a bright red flower, an American flag and a one-sentence note at the monument to Irish patriot Michael Collins.

Her offerings and pilgrimages to Collins’ grave are noteworthy but not extraordinary because the Irish are constantly refreshing the plot in which Collins is buried with potted plants and bouquets. Nearly 100 years after Collins was assassinated, he still commands loyalty and admiration.

A few sections of the cemetery away sits the grave of Eamon de Valera, Collins’ contemporary who became a longtime leader of Ireland.

De Valera’s grave, in contrast, was sparse. No flowers. No flags. Just gravel and a modest stone cross that was meant, initially, for his child before it became his grave marker too.

Some of us wondered why it was so understated for someone who spent 10 years as Taoiseach (or prime minister) and 14 years as Ireland’s third president.

My theory is that perhaps de Valera didn’t think he’d ever need a grave because he was a survivor. 

He was the only male leader of the 1916 Easter Rising to escape execution. I say male because women played a huge role in the planning and fighting, and seemed at the time to be moving rapidly toward equality. 

The Countess Markievicz was a key leader.
As we have learned, the Proclamation of the Republic is the first such document in the world to specifically reference women. It starts: "Irishmen and Irishwomen ..."  And many of the Rising’s commanders, such as labor leader James Connolly, were feminists. “Win the women to your cause and your cause is secure,” Connolly famously said.

The British refused to kill the women who participated in the six-day-long uprising. But the other 14 rebel leaders were shot. (The Brits didn’t consider the 25-year-old Collins, who was aide de camp to Joseph Mary Plunkett, enough of a threat, so they sent him to a prison camp in Wales.)

De Valera was a political survivor as well. Because he was the highest-ranking rebel still alive, he filled the power vacuum after the Rising and heading into the Irish War for Independence in 1919. The Irish guerrilla tactics proved so effective against the more powerful British, that the two sides set out to negotiate a treaty in 1921 that would effectively split Ireland creating a free country across most of the island but leaving six counties in the north under British rule (or "continued occupation" as our tour guide at Glasnevin Cemetery put it).
The treaty wasn't popular but did pass.

Here’s where de Valera showed what kind of political survivor he was. Instead negotiating a treaty that would inevitably have to involve concessions, de Valera sent Collins to do it.

And Collins paid the price with his life. The treaty sparked a civil war, and de Valera gave himself cover by denouncing the treaty’s terms. Collins, in August 1922, was assassinated in an ambush while leading a patrol in his home county of Cork.

De Valera would go on to play a key role in undoing much of the gender equality that many of his fellow rebel leaders sought because he allowed the church to essentially set social policy. 
The grave of the well-mourned Collins.

First it was a slow recession of rights – women, who briefly served as judges during the “shadow” government before independence, suddenly were excluded from juries and high-level government jobs, as Dr. Mary McAuliffe, University College of Dublin gender history professor, told our class. As the church and government blended, “respectability” became the standard and radical women were “demonized,” McAuliffe said.

Throughout our studies and travels, we've heard repeatedly that the Ireland of the 20th Century likely didn't resemble what the 1916 Rising leaders seemed to envision. And that brings us back to the note that “The Yank” lays at Micheal Collins’ grave. Our tour guide at Glasnevin said it contains a simple message that piques the imagination:

“Michael, who knows what might have been.”

Monday, June 6, 2016

When getting oriented in Dublin, look out for ducks, fire trucks and Christopher Walken references

First 24 hours in Ireland checklist: Shake off jet lag. Attend orientation tour at University College Dublin. Scope out bus system (Hooray for buses with WiFi!). Wander through central Dublin. Don't get run over by fire truck.

I'll explain in a bit.

First, though, University College Dublin, or UCD for short, is a few bus stops to the south of downtown Dublin. It used to occupy some buildings near St. Stephen's Green in central Dublin until the university received a donation of 133 hectares of land outside the city. In the metric system, 133 hectares is somewhere between "big" and "really expansive."

It now has scores of buildings, many of which are in that '60s modernish style. But it has some cool features, including a student union that contains a pool, an on-campus pub and a debate chamber. Students start the semester by debating controversial topics to get everyone's spirit of activism and intellectual curiosity flowing. (Alas, it wasn't open when we toured campus, so no pictures yet.)

Our study abroad group from Murray State got the whirlwind tour on our first day that included learning how to follow the correct line of tape to get to our classroom. 

Apparently someone thought this classroom building at UCD was big enough that it required a complex system of letters and colors to guide students through it.

We also explored the streets of Dublin on a busy Saturday after a trip to the National Gallery of Ireland and an "information scavenger hunt" on St. Stephen's Green.

People lounging by the duck pond at St. Stephen's Green.
St. Stephen's Green served as a crucial spot during the uprising of Easter week April 1916 and features monuments and historical markers all over it. That includes one of Countess Constance Markiewicz, who was one of the leaders of the Volunteer Army who took control of the green in their bid to spark an uprising and free themselves from British rule.

Sun shines on the Countess.
(More on all that in future posts). 

Now the Green is a popular spot for families, children, students, couples, friends – similar to Boston Common or, rather, Boston Common is similar to St. Stephen's Green.

Dubliners come to enjoy the afternoon and the ducks. Of course the ducks have remained a priority even during the Rising in 1916. During the week in which the Volunteers controlled St. Stephen's Green, the British and Volunteers would observe a truce twice a day for the park superintendent, James Kearney, to feed the ducks. Still, he Kearney later reported, the fighting killed six foul, broke seven benches and destroyed 300 shrubs.

After St. Stephen's Green, it was on to Grafton Street, the big touristy shopping/outdoor entertainment area that runs through the center of downtown. As we worked our way through shoppers and bubbles being blown and past the man selling his poetry books for 10 Euros and around the juggler, we heard a burst of a truck horn as a fire truck rounded the corner, splitting our group in half. I'm still not sure how it managed to rumble up the rest of Grafton Street without smashing a stray tourist, poet or juggler.

This is what it had to go through. 






This is the fire truck NOT running us over on Grafton Street.



Later on, four of us wandered through more of the city to see Dublin after dark, although in June, that requires a lot of wandering to wait for it to get dark. We're so far north, sunlight stays around until 10:30ish.

The Ha'Penny Bridge, so called because it used to cost one, is now a walking bridge over the Liffey River that links the two sides of central Dublin. It's near Temple Bar, which is the popular nightlife area.

For 100 years, a ha' penny would do to cross the bridge. And if you haven't got a ha' penny?

The Temple Bar area was packed on Saturday night with revelers, nightclub goers and bachelorette and themed stag parties. (We saw a "Hulkmania" group including the presumed groom dressed as Hulk Hogan and a batch of pirates)

We also saw these guys (to the right) rocking for the crowd. Those two – a drummer and guitarist – kept up a continuous jam for quite a while. We stopped for 15 minutes, then started walking back to the bus stop and could still hear them in the distance.

Finally, the end of the orientation to Dublin must end with the return of the popular feature: Sign of the Day. I'd ask for a drum roll please, but it's more appropriate in this case to ask for "More Cowbell."

Here you go:
From the door of a clever pub in Temple Bar.